Tools · Seed starting

Seed starting calculator: when to start seeds indoors

Enter your average last spring frost date. The table shows when to sow each crop indoors and when it can go out into the garden.

Don't know it? The seasonal planner shows where to look it up. Without a date, the table shows weeks before or after your last frost.

Sowing and planting-out windows by crop. Sowing dates include 1 week of hardening off before planting out.
CropStart seeds indoorsPlant outWeeks indoors
Pepper6–8 weeks before last frost1 week after last frost, soil 60°F+6–8
Eggplant6–8 weeks before last frost1 week after last frost, soil 60°F+6–8
Tomato5–7 weeks before last frost1 week after last frost, soil 60°F+5–7
Broccoli9–12 weeks before last frost4–6 weeks before last frost4–5
Cabbage9–12 weeks before last frost4–6 weeks before last frost4–5
Kale9–12 weeks before last frost4–6 weeks before last frost4–5
Cucumber3–4 weeks before last frost1 week after last frost, soil 60°F+3–4
Summer squash and zucchini3–4 weeks before last frost1 week after last frost, soil 60°F+3–4
Melons3–4 weeks before last frost1 week after last frost, soil 60°F+3–4

How the dates are worked out

Each crop needs a certain number of weeks from sowing to a transplant ready for the garden, plus a week of hardening off: moving it outdoors a little more each day. The calculator counts back from the day each crop can safely go outside.

  • Hardy: plant out 4–6 weeks before your last frost, after hardening off. Broccoli, cabbage, and kale tolerate light frost once they are hardened off.
  • Tender: plant out after your last frost, once soil is at least 60°F. The calculator plans for one week after your last frost date. If the soil is still cold, wait; cold soil stalls warm-season crops.

A last frost date is an average, not a promise. In a typical year there is still a real chance of frost after it. For transplants you cannot replace, the seasonal planner explains how to use a safer, later date.

When to adjust the dates

  • Check the seed packet. Varieties differ, and some peppers take longer than others.
  • Give seedlings enough light. On a windowsill, seedlings often stretch and grow slowly, which throws off the schedule. Under grow lights they stay compact and on time.
  • Don't start too early. Seedlings kept indoors too long get root-bound and leggy, and they settle into the garden more slowly than younger plants.

For containers, seed-starting mix, temperatures, and grow lights, read how to start seeds indoors. For which crops to sow directly in the garden instead, see the March guide.

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